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Cold Raised Pies

A pie filled with game, bacon, and force-meat, baked slowly and served cold.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 9 ingredients
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Why it works: Truffle and butter are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 11% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 2,209 recipes. Both carry nonanal, which smells fat, citrus. The science ↓

Cold Raised Pies

Ingredients

Directions

The book gives no oven temperature. The 300°F (150°C) in the steps was added when the recipe was transcribed, as a starting point. The book gives no cooking times either; the times in the steps were added in transcription, so check for doneness rather than trusting the clock.

Prepare the meats

  1. Boil and trim the York ham and tongues.

  2. Season and garnish the inside of the game with fillets of bacon and tongue. Sew the game up with a needle and twine to prevent the filling from escaping.

Bake the birds

  1. Line two round or oval baking pans with layers of bacon.

  2. Arrange the birds neatly in the pans and cover with bacon and buttered paper.

  3. Bake in a slow oven at 300°F (150°C) for about 4 hours.

  4. Allow to cool after baking.

Make the aspic and assemble

  1. Prepare aspic jelly with the carcasses of the game and poultry, adding calves' feet and vegetables.

  2. Clarify the aspic and reduce half before pouring into the pie.

  3. Make hot-water paste and line the inside of the pie with bacon and seasoned force-meat.

  4. Layer the birds in the pie, starting with the goose at the bottom, filling gaps with force-meat.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Truffle + buttertop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,209 recipes

    Shared aroma: nonanal (fat, citrus).

  2. Ham + truffletop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together516 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-one (mushroom, metallic).

  3. Ham + buttertop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,475 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-decenal (waxy, orange).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Calves' feet
Their gelatin helps the aspic set firmly when it cools.
Butter
Adds richness and moisture to the dish.
Fat bacon
Adds fat and savoury flavour, and bastes the birds as they bake.
Hot-water paste (for pie crust)
A sturdy, moldable crust that holds the filling and aspic.

The step that matters

Clarify the aspic and reduce half before pouring into the pie. Clarifying removes cloudiness and impurities so the jelly sets clear, while reducing concentrates its flavour and gelatin so it sets firmly once chilled.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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