Why it works: Chervil and tarragon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 824 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
Beurre De Montpellier —
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare the herbs
Wash the chervil, tarragon, burnet, and chives in fresh water.
Blanch the herbs in boiling salted water for 5-6 minutes, then cool them in ice water.
Hard boil the eggs.
Squeeze the water from the herbs and pound them until smooth.
Make the butter
Add the anchovies, capers, gherkins, egg yolks, and garlic to the herbs and pound for 10 minutes.
Mix in the fresh butter until well combined.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Chervil + tarragontop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together824 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
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Chervil + chivetop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together370 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
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Chervil + caperstop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together135 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
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Chive + caperstop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together245 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
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Tarragon + caperstop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together379 recipes
Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Chervil
- Provides the aromatic, fresh herbal flavour that defines the butter.
- Tarragon
- Adds its distinctive anise-like aroma and flavour to the butter.
- Anchovies
- Contribute deep savoury saltiness and umami that round out the herbs.
- Hard-boiled eggs
- Yolks are pounded in to give the butter body and a rich, creamy texture.
- Butter
- Carries the herbs and other flavourings, giving the spread its richness and smooth texture.
- Capers
- Add sharp acidity and a briny bite that cut through the richness of the butter.
The step that matters
Pounding the herbs smooth after blanching. Herbs must be squeezed dry before pounding, because excess water dilutes the butter and dulls its flavour. Pounding until smooth breaks the cell walls so the flavour disperses evenly through the fat.
Swap the clove
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (chervil, tarragon, chive, egg, capers, garlic, butter):
- Parsleyfits better
- Thymefits better
- Fennelfits better
- Clovethe original
Fit is the average pairing score against chervil, tarragon, chive, egg, capers, garlic, butter. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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