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Dessert

Barley Sugar

A candied sugar made by clarifying sugar, adding lemon juice and essence, then cooling and cutting into strips.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Lemon and ginger match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 5% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 5,154 recipes. Both carry beta-phellandrene, which smells minty, terpene. The science ↓

Barley Sugar

Ingredients

Directions

Make the sugar

  1. Clarify the sugar until it reaches the crack stage.

  2. Add the lemon juice and lemon essence.

  3. Let it boil once or twice.

  4. Set the mixture aside for a few minutes.

Shape

  1. Grease a marble slab or large slate with almond oil.

  2. Pour the sugar mixture onto the slab.

  3. Cut it into long strips with scissors, twisting them slightly.

  4. For drops, use a ladle with a fine lip to drop the mixture onto the greased marble or a sheet of white paper with sifted sugar.

Store

  1. Once cooled, store the barley sugar in tin boxes or canisters.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Lemon + gingertop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together5,154 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  2. Almond + barleytop 5% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together78 recipes

    Shared aroma: acetylpyrazine (roast).

  3. Lemon + almondtop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together5,655 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  4. Almond + gingertop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,163 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  5. Lemon + barleytop 13% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together484 recipes

    Shared aroma: 3-hexenal (apple, fruity).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Sugar
Forms the glassy, hard candy structure as it is heated and cooled.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that brightens the flavour and balances the sweetness.
Lemon essence
Adds concentrated lemon aroma to the candy.

The step that matters

Clarify the sugar until it reaches the crack stage. Sugar must be heated to the hard-crack range so that, once cooled, it sets hard and brittle rather than sticky. Undercooked sugar stays tacky and will not hold its shape.

Swap the ginger

The recipe marks ginger as optional. How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, lemon, almond, barley):

  1. Cinnamonfits better
  2. Nutmegfits better
  3. Thymefits better
  4. Gingerthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, lemon, almond, barley. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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