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Stewed Water Turtles, or Terrapins

A stew of water turtle meat simmered with butter, egg yolk, Madeira or sherry, spices, and currant jelly.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 10 ingredients
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Why it works: Nutmeg and mace are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 4% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 6,557 recipes. Both carry myristicin, which smells spice, warm. The science ↓

Stewed Water Turtles, or Terrapins

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the turtle

  1. Wash the turtle and place it alive in boiling water with salt. Boil for 10-15 minutes until fully cooked.

  2. Remove the shell and extract the meat, discarding the sandbag, gall, and entrails.

  3. Cut the meat into pieces and place it in a stew pan with its eggs and enough fresh butter to stew well.

Stew and make the sauce

  1. Cover the pan and heat the mixture until hot, shaking it occasionally to prevent sticking.

  2. In another pan, combine the egg yolk, Madeira or sherry, nutmeg, mace, currant jelly, cayenne pepper, and salt. Add a large lump of fresh butter.

  3. Stir the sauce over heat until it almost boils, then remove from heat.

Serve

  1. Serve the stewed terrapins hot in a covered dish, with the sauce on the side for those who want it.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Nutmeg + macetop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together6,557 recipes

    Shared aroma: myristicin (spice, warm).

  2. Nutmeg + peppertop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together13,015 recipes

    Shared aroma: 4'-methylacetophenone (bitter almond).

  3. Sherry + curranttop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together393 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl cinnamate (sweet, balsamic).

  4. Mace + curranttop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together1,791 recipes

    Shared aroma: alpha-pinene (pine, turpentine).

  5. Butter + sherrytop 14% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,505 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Water turtle
Provides the main body of meat that is cut and stewed until tender.
Egg yolk
Thickens the sauce and gives it a rich, smooth body when gently heated.
Fresh butter
Adds richness and moisture, helping the meat stew without drying out.
Madeira or sherry
Adds acidity and depth of flavour to the sauce.
Currant jelly
Adds sweetness and body to the sauce.

The step that matters

Stirring the sauce before it boils. Egg yolk thickens by gentle heat, but if the sauce boils it can curdle and turn grainy, so it should be stirred over heat only until it almost boils and then removed.

Swap the currant

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, egg, sherry, nutmeg, mace, pepper):

  1. Lemonfits better
  2. Figfits better
  3. Plumfits better
  4. Currantthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against butter, egg, sherry, nutmeg, mace, pepper. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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