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To Preserve Watermelon Rind and Citron

A preserved watermelon rind candied with sugar syrup and citron.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Sugar and syrup match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 6% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 5,842 recipes. Both carry ethanol, which smells alcoholic, ethereal. The science ↓

To Preserve Watermelon Rind and Citron

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the rind

  1. Pare off the green skin.

  2. Cut the watermelon rind into pieces and weigh the pieces.

  3. Use 1.5 pounds of sugar for each pound of rind.

  4. Line a kettle with green vine leaves.

  5. Add the rind without sugar, covering each layer with vine leaves.

  6. Pour enough water to cover the rind.

  7. Place a thick cloth over the kettle.

  8. Simmer for two hours.

  9. Add a few bits of alum.

  10. Spread the rind on a dish to cool.

Make the syrup

  1. Melt the sugar with 1 pint of water for every 1.5 pounds of sugar.

  2. Mix in the beaten egg white.

  3. Boil and skim the sugar until clear.

  4. Add the rind and boil for two hours.

  5. Remove the rind.

  6. Boil the syrup again.

  7. Pour the syrup over the rind.

  8. Let it sit overnight.

  9. Boil the syrup with lemon juice until thick enough to hang from a spoon.

Pack and rest

  1. Put the rind in jars and pour the syrup over it.

  2. Let it sit before using.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Sugar + syruptop 6% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together5,842 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).

  2. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  3. Egg + lemontop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together44,316 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e,e)-2,4-decadienal (fatty, deep fried).

  4. Lemon + syruptop 20% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together2,235 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).

  5. Sugar + eggtop 21% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together122,807 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Watermelon rind
Forms the preserved body of the dish, becoming tender and translucent as it cooks in syrup.
Loaf sugar
Sweetens and, at high concentration in syrup, preserves the rind and gives it a glossy texture.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that brightens the sweetness and helps the syrup thicken.
Egg white
Binds impurities to the surface when boiled, so they can be skimmed off and the syrup clears.

The step that matters

Boil the syrup with lemon juice until thick enough to hang from a spoon. Too little cooking leaves a thin syrup that will not preserve the rind well, while overcooking makes it sticky or crystallize. The spoon test shows the sugar has reached a concentration firm enough to hold the rind.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, egg, syrup):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Raisinfits better
  3. Lemonthe original
  4. Figfits about as well

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, egg, syrup. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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