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Black Butter

A butter sauce flavored with capers, vinegar, and Harvey sauce.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Capers and sauce work together. They rank in the top 11% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 678 recipes. Both carry ethanol, which smells alcoholic, ethereal. The science ↓

Black Butter

Ingredients

Directions

Brown the butter

  1. Melt the butter in a frying pan until it becomes a rich brown color, but do not let it burn.

Finish the sauce

  1. In another pan, heat the chopped capers with their vinegar, French vinegar, and Harvey sauce.

  2. Remove the butter from the heat and stir in the caper mixture.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Capers + saucetop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together678 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).

  2. Butter + saucetop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together15,338 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethanol (alcoholic, ethereal).

  3. Butter + caperstop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,637 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  4. Capers + vinegartop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,453 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

  5. Butter + vinegartop 23% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together13,513 recipes

    Shared aroma: isoamyl acetate (banana, pear).

Butter and sauce barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 15,338 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Butter
Browns to give a nutty flavor and a rich, fatty body to the sauce.
Chopped capers
Add briny, sharp bursts of flavor that cut through the rich butter.
Caper vinegar
Adds acidity that brightens the richness of the browned butter.
French vinegar
Adds sharp acidity that balances the fat in the sauce.

The step that matters

Browning the butter without burning it. Butter's milk solids toast as it heats, creating nutty, complex flavor. Once they pass golden brown, they turn bitter and dark, so the butter must be removed from heat at the right color.

Swap the capers

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, vinegar, sauce):

  1. Tarragonfits about as well
  2. Capersthe original
  3. Garlicfits less well
  4. Parsleyfits less well

Fit is the average pairing score against butter, vinegar, sauce. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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