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Dessert

Ice Cream

A chilled dairy dessert made from milk, cream, lemon, sugar, and arrowroot, frozen with snow and salt.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Ice Cream

Why it works: Arrowroot and lemon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 4% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 553 recipes. Both carry coumarin, which smells sweet, hay. The science ↓

Ice Cream

Ingredients

Directions

Make the base

  1. Wet the arrowroot with a little cold milk.

  2. Add the arrowroot to the boiling milk.

  3. Sweeten the mixture with white sugar and add the grated lemon peel.

  4. Boil the mixture and strain it into the thick cream.

Freeze

  1. When partly frozen, add the juice of the lemons.

  2. If you lack a freezing apparatus, place the cream in a tightly covered tin pail.

  3. Mix equal parts of snow and fine salt (or pounded ice and salt) in a tub and place the pail in it.

  4. Turn the pail half round and back again with one hand for about 30-45 minutes, mixing the frozen part with the rest several times.

  5. Ensure the mixture is perfectly cool before placing it in the freezer.

  6. Cover the freezer tightly with snow and salt until ready to serve.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Photo for illustrative purposes only · Contact us to use it

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Arrowroot + lemontop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together553 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  2. Cream + sugartop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  3. Milk + lemontop 15% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together19,053 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  4. Milk + creamtop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together29,399 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

  5. Milk + arrowroottop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together817 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-methylbutyraldehyde (malty, chocolate).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Arrowroot
Thickens the milk mixture so the base becomes smooth and creamy when cooled.
Thick cream
Adds fat, which gives the frozen ice cream a rich, smooth texture.
Milk
Forms the liquid base that the arrowroot thickens and the cream enriches.
White sugar
Sweetens the base and lowers its freezing point, keeping the ice cream softer.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that gives the ice cream a bright, tart flavour.

The step that matters

Cool the mixture fully before freezing. Warm base freezes slowly and forms large ice crystals, giving a coarse, grainy texture. Chilling it first lets the churn freeze it quickly into smooth ice cream.

Swap the arrowroot

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (milk, lemon, cream, sugar):

  1. Arrowrootthe original
  2. Potatofits about as well
  3. Sweet potatofits about as well
  4. Asparagusfits less well

Fit is the average pairing score against milk, lemon, cream, sugar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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