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Dessert

Barley-sugar

A candied sugar made from refined sugar, spring water, egg white, lemon juice, and lemon essence.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Lemon and butter are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 16% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 41,227 recipes. Both carry 3-hexenal, which smells apple, fruity. The science ↓

Barley-sugar

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare

  1. In a pot, combine the sugar and spring water.

  2. Add the egg white to clarify the mixture as directed in previous recipes.

Cook the sugar

  1. Once it begins to whiten and thicken, stir in the lemon juice.

  2. Boil quickly until it reaches the desired consistency.

  3. Add a few drops of essence of lemon just before removing from heat.

Shape and store

  1. Pour the mixture onto a marble slab or a shallow dish greased with butter.

  2. When it starts to harden at the edges, shape it into sticks, lozenges, or balls.

  3. For other uses, keep the mixture warm in a water bath until needed.

  4. Store cooled sugar in dry canisters to prevent moisture absorption.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Lemon + buttertop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together41,227 recipes

    Shared aroma: 3-hexenal (apple, fruity).

  2. Egg + buttertop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together118,967 recipes

    Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).

  3. Sugar + buttertop 17% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together98,233 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

  4. Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  5. Egg + lemontop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together44,316 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e,e)-2,4-decadienal (fatty, deep fried).

Sugar and lemon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 53,532 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Sugar
Forms the glassy, hard candy structure once cooked to the desired consistency.
Egg white
Clarifies the syrup, binding impurities so they can be skimmed away for a clear candy.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that brightens flavour and helps limit crystallisation of the sugar.

The step that matters

Boil quickly until it reaches the desired consistency. Sugar syrup hardens according to its final temperature, so overcooking gives a brittle, bitter result and undercooking leaves it sticky. Boiling briskly keeps the time at high heat short and the colour pale.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, egg, butter):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Lemonthe original
  3. Raisinfits about as well
  4. Figfits about as well

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, egg, butter. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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