Why it works: Sugar and flour are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 15% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 92,116 recipes. Both carry phenylacetaldehyde, which smells hawthorne, honey. The science ↓
Jelly Roll
Ingredients
Directions
The book gives no oven temperature. The 400°F (200°C) in the steps was added when the recipe was transcribed, as a starting point.
Make the batter
Beat the eggs until light, then add the sugar and beat until very light, about 5 to 10 minutes.
Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt together three times, then add to the egg and sugar mixture and beat for 2 minutes.
Gradually add the hot water and lemon extract, then beat the mixture.
Prepare and bake
Prepare a 12x14 or 12x16 inch tin pan by greasing it generously, placing a piece of oil paper in the bottom, greasing the paper, and dusting flour over it.
Pour the dough mixture into the prepared pan and bake at 400°F (200°C) until done.
Roll and fill
Once baked, turn the cake out upside down onto a damp towel, quickly remove the paper, and spread soft jelly over the cake.
Roll the cake using the towel, starting from the end closest to you, within 2 minutes to prevent cracking.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
-
Sugar + flourtop 15% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together92,116 recipes
Shared aroma: phenylacetaldehyde (hawthorne, honey).
-
Egg + flourtop 15% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together106,462 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
-
Flour + lemontop 17% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together30,404 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
-
Sugar + lemontop 18% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together53,532 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).
-
Egg + lemontop 19% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together44,316 recipes
Shared aroma: (e,e)-2,4-decadienal (fatty, deep fried).
Egg and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 106,462 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Eggs
- Whipped with sugar to trap air, giving the sponge its light, airy structure.
- Flour
- Forms the cake's structure once set in the oven, holding the airy crumb together.
- Granulated sugar
- Whipped with the eggs to build volume and adds sweetness to the sponge.
- Baking powder
- Releases gas in the batter, helping the sponge rise and stay light.
- Hot water
- Loosens the batter and adds moisture, keeping the sponge tender.
The step that matters
Rolling the cake within 2 minutes. A warm sponge is pliable; once it cools it loses flexibility and cracks when rolled. Rolling promptly while the cake is still warm and soft prevents the surface from splitting.
Swap the lemon
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, sugar, flour):
- Raisinfits better
- Vanillafits better
- Lemonthe original
- Figfits about as well
Fit is the average pairing score against egg, sugar, flour. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
More jelly roll recipes
You might also like
The free Flavor Lab newsletter: one surprising pairing a week and the molecular reason it works, in 60 seconds. No spam, unsubscribe anytime.
Prefer an account? Create a free account to save pairings and unlock the full chemistry.
Lemon Cake228 recipes
Lemon Ice147 recipes
Lemon Sherbet103 recipes
Lemon Custard64 recipes