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Dessert

Squash or Pumpkin Pie

A baked pie made with squash or pumpkin, brown sugar, eggs, milk, butter, ginger, cinnamon, and a pie crust.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Ginger and cinnamon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 6,380 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Squash or Pumpkin Pie

Oven, in the book's wordsA hot oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a hot oven”. The 400°F (200°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Prepare the squash

  1. Cut the squash into pieces and remove the seeds, leaving the skin on.

  2. Steam the squash until cooked, then scrape the flesh from the rind and press it through a colander.

Make the filling

  1. In a bowl, combine the warm squash, brown sugar, salt, ginger, cinnamon, and egg yolks.

  2. Beat in the boiling milk until well mixed, then fold in the beaten egg whites.

Bake

  1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

  2. Pour the mixture into a pricked pie crust and bake for 10 minutes.

  3. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (175°C) and continue baking until set.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Ginger + cinnamontop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,380 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Winter squash + cinnamontop 2% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together21 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  3. Milk + buttertop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together81,283 recipes

    Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).

  4. Milk + cinnamontop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together12,655 recipes

    Shared aroma: cuminaldehyde (Spicy, cumin).

  5. Winter squash + gingertop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together16 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Winter squash
Provides the bulk and smooth body of the filling once pureed.
Eggs
Their proteins set during baking, giving the filling its firm, sliceable structure.
Brown sugar
Adds sweetness and moisture, and helps the filling taste rich and caramelised.
Milk
Adds liquid and creaminess, diluting the eggs so the custard sets softly.
Cinnamon
Contributes warm aromatic flavour that defines the spiced character of the pie.
Ginger
Adds a sharp, warming aroma that balances the sweetness of the filling.

The step that matters

Baking until set. Egg proteins set as they heat, and overbaking makes the custard curdle, crack, and weep liquid. Pull the pie when the centre just wobbles, since it firms as it cools.

Swap the winter squash

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, egg, milk, butter, ginger, cinnamon):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Lemonfits better
  3. Figfits better
  4. Winter squashthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, egg, milk, butter, ginger, cinnamon. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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