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Dessert

Juice of Fresh-cathered Fruit Iced

A chilled fruit ice made from currants or raspberries, sugar, lemon juice, cream, isinglass, spices, and sweetened with sugar.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Cinnamon and laurel match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 4% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 691 recipes. Both carry cinnamyl acetate, which smells sweet aromatic, cinnamon. The science ↓

Juice of Fresh-cathered Fruit Iced

Ingredients

Directions

Make the base

  1. Press the currants or raspberries through a sieve to extract the juice.

  2. Add the pounded sugar, a little lemon juice, and cream to the juice.

  3. Whisk the mixture before freezing if desired.

  4. In a teacup of water, dissolve the isinglass by boiling.

  5. When warm, add the dissolved isinglass to a quart of rich cream.

  6. Add the cinnamon stick, lemon peel, laurel leaves, and sweeten with sugar.

  7. Stir over heat and let it boil for 2 to 3 minutes.

  8. Strain through muslin into a deep dish and stir until nearly cold.

Set and serve

  1. Pour into an earthenware mold and refrigerate overnight.

  2. To unmold, dip the mold in warm water for a minute, then turn it out onto a dish.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Cinnamon + laureltop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together691 recipes

    Shared aroma: cinnamyl acetate (sweet aromatic, cinnamon).

  2. Lemon + cinnamontop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together7,950 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  3. Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  4. Lemon + laureltop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together2,239 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  5. Sugar + cinnamontop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together30,779 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

Sugar and cinnamon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 30,779 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Isinglass
Gelatin-like setting agent that firms the mixture so it holds its shape when unmolded.
Cream
Adds fat and richness, giving the ice a smooth, creamy texture.
Currants or raspberries
Provide the main fruit flavour, tartness and colour.
Pounded loaf sugar
Adds sweetness and softens the flavour of the fruit's tartness.

The step that matters

Dissolving the isinglass. Isinglass must be fully dissolved by boiling in water before it is added, or it will not set evenly and may leave gritty lumps in the finished ice.

Swap the currant

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, lemon, cream, cinnamon, laurel):

  1. Orangefits better
  2. Vanillafits better
  3. Limefits better
  4. Currantthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, lemon, cream, cinnamon, laurel. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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