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Dessert

Clear Jelly

A clear gelatin made from calf's feet, wine, lemon, sugar, and egg whites.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
From a historical cookbook (Internet Archive) · 9 ingredients
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Why it works: Lemon and cinnamon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 7,950 recipes. Both carry beta-phellandrene, which smells minty, terpene. The science ↓

Clear Jelly

Ingredients

Directions

Make the stock

  1. Cut the calves' feet into pieces and place them in a saucepan with 3 quarts of water.

  2. Boil until reduced to 3 pints, then strain through a sieve into a basin.

  3. Remove the fat and let it stand overnight to form stock.

Make the jelly

  1. In a saucepan, combine the stock with 1½ pints of white wine, lemon juice, lemon peel, sugar, and the beaten egg whites.

  2. Add a little cinnamon and the eggshells, stirring well.

  3. If using for moulds, add 1 ounce of isinglass before heating.

  4. Heat the mixture on the stove.

  5. When it rises, remove it from the heat, then return it to the heat again.

  6. Strain the mixture through a flannel bag.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Lemon + cinnamontop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together7,950 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  2. Sugar + cinnamontop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together30,779 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

  3. White wine + lemontop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,832 recipes

    Shared aroma: myrcene (balsamic, herbaceous).

  4. Lemon + sugartop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

  5. Lemon + eggtop 19% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together44,316 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e,e)-2,4-decadienal (fatty, deep fried).

Sugar and cinnamon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 30,779 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Calves' feet
Release gelatine into the water as they simmer, forming the body of the stock.
White wine
Adds acidity and flavour that balance the sweetness of the jelly.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that brightens flavour and helps the jelly taste clean.
Sugar
Sweetens the jelly and balances the sharpness of the lemon and wine.
Egg whites
Bind to impurities as they heat, so straining leaves a clear liquid.

The step that matters

Heating the mixture until it rises, then returning it to the heat. Egg whites cloud the liquid and then coagulate, trapping particles as the mixture rises. Letting it rise, then briefly re-heating, helps the impurities clump so the straining produces a clear jelly.

Swap the cinnamon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (white wine, lemon, sugar, egg):

  1. Tarragonfits about as well
  2. Nutmegfits about as well
  3. Parsleyfits about as well
  4. Cinnamonthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against white wine, lemon, sugar, egg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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