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Dessert

Old-fashioned Composition Cake

A spiced raisin cake with butter, sugar, eggs, flour, baking soda, cream of tartar, milk, and spices.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Clove and allspice match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 7,874 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Old-fashioned Composition Cake

Ingredients

Directions

The book gives no oven temperature. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps was added when the recipe was transcribed, as a starting point.

Prepare the batter

  1. Preheat your oven to 350°F (175°C).

  2. In a large bowl, cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy.

  3. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition.

  4. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, baking soda, cream of tartar, and spices.

  5. Gradually add the dry ingredients to the butter mixture, alternating with the milk.

  6. Fold in the raisins or currants.

Bake

  1. Pour the batter into a greased cake pan and bake for about 1 hour or until a toothpick comes out clean.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Clove + allspicetop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together7,874 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Butter + milktop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together81,283 recipes

    Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).

  3. Butter + creamtop 8% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together41,516 recipes

    Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).

  4. Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together43,450 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).

  5. Flour + buttertop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together124,287 recipes

    Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).

Flour and butter barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Butter
Creams with sugar to trap air and adds richness and a tender crumb.
Eggs
Add structure and help bind the batter as they set in the oven.
All-purpose flour
Forms the cake's main structure as its proteins set during baking.
Baking soda
Reacts with the acid in cream of tartar to produce gas that makes the cake rise.
Cream of tartar
Provides acidity that activates the baking soda so the cake rises.
Raisins or currants
Add chewy texture and concentrated sweetness throughout the cake.

The step that matters

Adding the dry ingredients alternately with the milk. Adding flour in portions with the milk keeps the batter smooth and evenly emulsified. Overmixing once flour is in develops gluten, which can make the cake tough and dense.

Swap the clove

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (flour, butter, sugar, egg, cream, milk, allspice):

  1. Nutmegfits better
  2. Cinnamonfits better
  3. Cardamomfits better
  4. Clovethe original

Fit is the average pairing score against flour, butter, sugar, egg, cream, milk, allspice. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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