Why it works: Cinnamon and allspice match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 5,536 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
Neapolitan Cake
Ingredients
Directions
The book gives no oven temperature. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps was added when the recipe was transcribed, as a starting point.
Make the batters
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
For the light part, cream together 1½ cups sugar and ½ cup butter until fluffy.
Add ½ cup sweet milk, 2½ cups flour, 4 egg whites, and 1 teaspoon baking powder. Mix well.
For the dark part, cream together 1 cup sugar and ½ cup butter.
Stir in ½ cup molasses, ½ cup sour milk, 4 egg yolks, and 1 teaspoon baking soda.
Add 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon, 1 teaspoon ground allspice, 1 teaspoon ground cloves, 1 tablespoon ground ginger, and 2½ cups flour. Mix well.
Fold in 1½ pounds raisins if desired.
Bake and finish
Pour the light and dark batters into jelly pans, alternating layers.
Bake until a toothpick inserted comes out clean.
Ice the top and sides of the cake.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Cinnamon + allspicetop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together5,536 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
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Butter + milktop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Flour + cinnamontop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together17,341 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
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Milk + cinnamontop 10% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together12,655 recipes
Shared aroma: cuminaldehyde (Spicy, cumin).
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Sugar + cinnamontop 10% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together30,779 recipes
Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).
Sugar and cinnamon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 30,779 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Eggs
- Egg whites add lift and structure, while yolks add richness and tenderness to the batter.
- Butter
- Creamed with sugar, it traps air and adds fat for a tender, rich crumb.
- All-purpose flour
- Provides the structure that sets the cake's crumb as it bakes.
- Molasses
- Adds moisture, dark color, and a deep sweetness to the dark batter.
- Sour milk
- Its acidity reacts with the baking soda to lift the dark batter.
- Baking powder
- Releases gas in the light batter, helping it rise.
The step that matters
Alternating light and dark batters in the pans. Batters of different density and color must be layered gently so they bake into distinct, even bands rather than blending together.
Swap the allspice
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, butter, milk, flour, egg, molasses, cinnamon):
- Nutmegfits better
- Cardamomfits about as well
- Clovefits about as well
- Allspicethe original
Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, butter, milk, flour, egg, molasses, cinnamon. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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