Why it works: Nutmeg and cinnamon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 11,917 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
Spiced Cookies
Ingredients
Directions
The book says “a quick oven”. The 400°F (200°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.
Make the dough
Cream together the butter and lard.
Add the brown sugar and white sugar, mixing well.
Stir in the sour milk and egg until combined.
Mix in the baking soda, flour, clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, and lemon extract.
Fold in the raisins and chopped walnuts.
Bake
Drop spoonfuls of the mixture onto a buttered baking sheet.
Bake in a preheated oven at 400°F (200°C) until golden.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Nutmeg + cinnamontop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together11,917 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
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Clove + cinnamontop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together14,189 recipes
Shared aroma: ethyl cinnamate (sweet, balsamic).
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Clove + nutmegtop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together8,686 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
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Butter + milktop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Flour + nutmegtop 8% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together18,623 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Butter
- Adds richness and tenderness, and helps the cookies brown and carry flavour.
- Lard
- Adds fat that keeps the cookies soft and tender.
- Brown sugar
- Adds moisture and molasses flavour, and helps the cookies brown.
- Sour milk
- Adds moisture and acidity that reacts with the baking soda to help the cookies rise.
- Baking soda
- Reacts with the acidic sour milk to produce gas that leavens the dough.
- Flour
- Provides the structure that sets the cookies as they bake.
The step that matters
Mix in the baking soda, flour, clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, and lemon extract.. Baking soda needs an acid, such as the sour milk, to release gas and lift the dough. Once combined, the batter should be mixed only until blended, because overmixing flour develops gluten and makes the cookies tough.
Swap the clove
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, sugar, milk, egg, flour, nutmeg, cinnamon):
- Cardamomfits better
- Allspicefits about as well
- Clovethe original
- Gingerfits less well
Fit is the average pairing score against butter, sugar, milk, egg, flour, nutmeg, cinnamon. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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