Why it works: Butter and milk are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 7% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 81,283 recipes. Both carry (z)-4-heptenal, which smells biscuit, cream. The science ↓
National Cake
Ingredients
Directions
The book says “a moderate oven”. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.
Prepare the batters
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
For the white part, cream together 1 cup white sugar and ½ cup butter. Add ½ cup sweet milk, the beaten whites of 4 eggs, ½ cup corn starch, and 1 cup flour mixed with 1 teaspoon cream of tartar and ½ teaspoon baking soda. Flavor with lemon extract.
For the blue part, cream together 1 cup blue sugar and ½ cup butter. Add ½ cup sweet milk, the beaten whites of 4 eggs, and 2 cups flour mixed with 1 teaspoon cream of tartar and ½ teaspoon baking soda.
For the red part, cream together 1 cup red sugar and ½ cup butter. Add ½ cup sweet milk, the beaten whites of 4 eggs, and 2 cups flour mixed with 1 teaspoon cream of tartar and ½ teaspoon baking soda.
Layer and bake
In a cake pan, layer the red part first, then the white part, and finally the blue part.
Bake in a moderate oven until done.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Butter + milktop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
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Butter + creamtop 8% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together41,516 recipes
Shared aroma: delta-dodecalactone (sweet, creamy).
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Sugar + creamtop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together43,450 recipes
Shared aroma: 2,3-butanedione (butter, sweet).
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Milk + corntop 10% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together6,955 recipes
Shared aroma: hexanal (green, grassy).
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Butter + flourtop 12% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together124,287 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
Butter and flour barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 124,287 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Egg whites
- Beaten whites trap air, giving the layers lift and a light, tender crumb.
- Flour
- Provides the main structure that holds the cake together as it bakes.
- Butter
- Adds fat for richness and a tender texture in the crumb.
- White sugar
- Sweetens the batter and helps browning and a soft crumb.
- Cream of tartar
- Acidifies the batter and stabilizes the egg whites for better rise.
- Baking soda
- Reacts with the acid in the batter to produce gas for rising.
The step that matters
Layering the colored batters. Each batter is thin enough to mix together if poured carelessly, so the layers blur. Pouring each color gently and in the stated order keeps the distinct red, white and blue layers separate during baking.
Swap the lemon
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, butter, milk, egg, corn, flour, cream):
- Vanillafits better
- Raisinfits better
- Coconutfits better
- Lemonthe original
Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, butter, milk, egg, corn, flour, cream. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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