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Dessert

Jelly

A gelatin made by simmering calf's feet with lemon, sugar, spices, and egg whites, then cooling and straining.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Clove and cinnamon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 14,189 recipes. Both carry ethyl cinnamate, which smells sweet, balsamic. The science ↓

Jelly

Ingredients

Directions

Prepare the stock

  1. Divide the calves' feet into four pieces at the joints and saw the bones in two.

  2. Place the pieces in a stewpan and cover with cold water.

  3. Bring to a boil to blanch, then remove from heat.

  4. Wash in cold water and discard the blanching water.

  5. Wash the stewpan.

  6. Return the pieces and cover with 2 quarts and 1 pint of cold water.

  7. Bring to a boil.

  8. Skim off any scum that rises.

  9. Let it simmer for about 6 hours.

  10. Strain the stock through a fine sieve.

  11. Let it cool overnight.

  12. Remove any fat from the top of the cooled stock.

Make the jelly

  1. In a stewpan, combine the stock with the lemon rind, lemon juice, sugar, cloves, and cinnamon.

  2. Add the egg whites and crushed shells, stirring well over heat until the jelly boils.

  3. Remove from heat and cover loosely.

  4. Let it sit for 20 minutes without stirring.

  5. Prepare a jelly bag by dipping it in hot water and wringing it dry, then drain the jelly through the bag.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Clove + cinnamontop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together14,189 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl cinnamate (sweet, balsamic).

  2. Lemon + cinnamontop 7% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together7,950 recipes

    Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).

  3. Lemon + clovetop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together8,150 recipes

    Shared aroma: eucalyptol (eucalyptus, herbal).

  4. Sugar + cinnamontop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together30,779 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

  5. Lemon + sugartop 18% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together53,532 recipes

    Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).

Sugar and cinnamon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 30,779 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Calves' feet
Release collagen into the stock, which sets into gelatin as it cools.
Egg whites
Collect impurities as they cook, leaving the finished jelly clearer.
Lemon juice
Adds acidity that brightens flavour and helps the jelly set.
Sugar
Adds sweetness and balances the sharpness of the lemon.

The step that matters

Letting the egg whites clarify the jelly. Stir gently but steadily until the jelly boils, then leave it undisturbed. Stirring after the whites have set into the liquid breaks up the clarifying raft, and the jelly stays cloudy.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, clove, cinnamon, egg):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Raisinfits better
  3. Figfits about as well
  4. Lemonthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, clove, cinnamon, egg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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