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Dessert

Baked Pumpkin or Squash for Pies

A baked pumpkin or squash filling for pies made with milk, sugar, molasses, eggs, ginger, and cinnamon.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Ginger and cinnamon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 6,380 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓

Baked Pumpkin or Squash for Pies

Oven, in the book's wordsA moderately slow oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a moderately slow oven”. The 300°F (150°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Prepare the pumpkin

  1. Cut the pumpkin into several pieces without peeling it.

  2. Place the pieces on baking tins and bake slowly at 300°F (150°C) until soft.

  3. Remove the pumpkin from the shell and rub it through a colander until smooth.

Make the filling

  1. In a bowl, combine the milk, strained pumpkin, sugar, molasses, beaten egg yolks, and salt. Add the ginger and cinnamon, and mix well.

Bake

  1. Pour the mixture into a pie crust and bake at 350°F (175°C) until set.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Ginger + cinnamontop 1% of all pairs
    Smell alikestrong
    Cooked together6,380 recipes

    Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).

  2. Pumpkin + cinnamontop 4% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,744 recipes

    Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom, earthy).

  3. Pumpkin + gingertop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together1,158 recipes

    Shared aroma: coumarin (sweet, hay).

  4. Milk + cinnamontop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together12,655 recipes

    Shared aroma: cuminaldehyde (Spicy, cumin).

  5. Sugar + cinnamontop 10% of all pairs
    Smell alikelow
    Cooked together30,779 recipes

    Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).

Sugar and cinnamon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 30,779 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Eggs
Yolks thicken the custard as they set, giving the filling its body and structure.
Pumpkin
Provides the bulk, moisture and flavour base of the filling.
Milk
Adds liquid and richness, helping the filling set into a smooth custard.
Sugar
Sweetens the filling and adds to its browning during baking.
Molasses
Adds deep sweetness and a darker colour with a robust flavour.

The step that matters

Bake until set, not until firm. Egg proteins set as the filling heats; overbaking pushes them too far, making the custard grainy, weeping or cracked. Remove it when the centre still jiggles slightly, as it finishes setting as it cools.

Swap the pumpkin

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (milk, sugar, molasses, egg, ginger, cinnamon):

  1. Vanillafits better
  2. Raisinfits better
  3. Figfits better
  4. Pumpkinthe original

Fit is the average pairing score against milk, sugar, molasses, egg, ginger, cinnamon. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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