Why it works: Wine and brandy are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 9% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 2,427 recipes. Both carry gamma-nonanolactone, which smells coconut, sweet. The science ↓
Wassail Custard
Ingredients
Directions
Make the custard
Beat the egg yolks well.
Pour the milk over the yolks in a bowl.
Place the bowl over a pan of boiling water and stir rapidly until thickened.
Let the mixture cool gradually while stirring continuously.
Assemble and soak
Line the bottom of a custard dish with sponge biscuits, macaroons, and ratafia cakes.
Cover the cakes with sweet wine, brandy, and lemon juice.
Let it stand for 30 minutes to absorb the liquor.
Finish and serve
Pour the custard over the cakes.
Serve topped with whipped egg whites sprinkled with sugar.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Wine + brandytop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together2,427 recipes
Shared aroma: gamma-nonanolactone (coconut, sweet).
-
Biscuit + lemontop 12% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together697 recipes
Shared aroma: nonanal (fat, citrus).
-
Wine + lemontop 13% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together6,157 recipes
Shared aroma: decanal (soap, orange peel).
-
Milk + lemontop 15% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together19,053 recipes
Shared aroma: 2-nonenal (fatty, green).
-
Milk + brandytop 15% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together3,738 recipes
Shared aroma: gamma-nonanolactone (coconut, sweet).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Egg yolks
- Thicken the milk into a custard as they set with gentle heat.
- Milk
- Forms the liquid base of the custard that the yolks thicken.
- Sponge biscuits
- Soak up the wine, brandy and lemon mixture to form the base layer.
- Macaroons
- Absorb the liquor and add a chewy, almond-flavoured texture to the base.
- Sweet wine
- Adds sweetness and moisture that soaks into the cakes.
- Brandy
- Adds alcohol and aroma that flavours the soaked cakes.
The step that matters
Stirring the custard over boiling water. Egg yolks thicken through gentle heat; if the water is too hot or stirring stops, the yolks can scramble and turn grainy. Stir constantly and keep the bowl off the direct boil.
Swap the lemon
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, milk, biscuit, wine, brandy, sugar):
- Vanillafits better
- Figfits better
- Apricotfits better
- Lemonthe original
Fit is the average pairing score against egg, milk, biscuit, wine, brandy, sugar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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