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Dessert

Rice — Continued

A sweet baked rice cake made with egg yolks, wine, lemon, and sugar.

From an old cookbook · modernised transcription
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Why it works: Butter and white wine are a kitchen classic. They rank in the top 9% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 5,083 recipes. Both carry ethyl octanoate, which smells fruity, wine. The science ↓

Rice — Continued

Oven, in the book's wordsA moderate oven

Ingredients

Directions

The book says “a moderate oven”. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.

Prepare the rice paste

  1. Pound the rice in a mortar until fine and pass it through a sieve.

  2. Mix in the yolks of six eggs to form a firm paste.

  3. Put the mixture into a well-buttered mold.

  4. Bake at 350°F (175°C) until done.

Cook the rice

  1. In a saucepan, boil 1 lb of rice in water until nearly soft, then drain the rice.

  2. Add white wine, water, lemon juice, and lemon rind to the rice.

  3. Stir over heat until soft.

  4. Remove from heat and let cool.

Mold and serve

  1. Butter the inside of a mold.

  2. Sprinkle with white wine.

  3. Pour in the rice mixture.

  4. Let it firm up for 10-12 hours.

  5. Turn out onto a dish.

  6. Decorate with candied or preserved fruits.

  7. Serve.

Recipe from a historical cookbook (Internet Archive).

Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.

Explore the science

The flavor team

The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.

  1. Butter + white winetop 9% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together5,083 recipes

    Shared aroma: ethyl octanoate (fruity, wine).

  2. White wine + lemontop 11% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together3,832 recipes

    Shared aroma: myrcene (balsamic, herbaceous).

  3. Rice + lemontop 12% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together4,366 recipes

    Shared aroma: (e,e)-2,4-decadienal (fatty, deep fried).

  4. Rice + buttertop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together9,645 recipes

    Shared aroma: trans-2-nonenal (cardboard, fatty).

  5. Butter + lemontop 16% of all pairs
    Smell alikemoderate
    Cooked together41,227 recipes

    Shared aroma: 3-hexenal (apple, fruity).

Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs

What each ingredient does

Rice
Its starch thickens and sets into a firm, sliceable mass when cooked and cooled.
Egg yolks
They bind the rice into a firm paste and enrich it as they set in the mold.
White wine
It adds moisture and a light fruity aroma to the rice.
Lemon juice
It adds acidity that brightens the flavour and balances the richness of the yolks.
Lemon rind
Its aromatic oils add a fresh citrus aroma to the rice.

The step that matters

Stir over heat until soft. The rice must be cooked fully soft so its starch can gelatinize and bind with the yolks; undercooked grains will not set into a firm, cohesive cake.

Swap the lemon

How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (rice, egg, butter, white wine, sugar):

  1. Vanillafits about as well
  2. Lemonthe original
  3. Coconutfits about as well
  4. Peachfits about as well

Fit is the average pairing score against rice, egg, butter, white wine, sugar. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.

“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.

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