Why it works: Nutmeg and cinnamon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 11,917 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
Jam Cake
Ingredients
Directions
The book gives no oven temperature. The 350°F (175°C) in the steps was added when the recipe was transcribed, as a starting point.
Make the batter
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
In a bowl, cream together the sugar and butter.
Add the eggs, sour milk, and thick preserves; mix well.
In a separate bowl, combine the flour, nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, allspice, and baking soda.
Dissolve the baking soda in a little hot water, then add it to the batter.
Gradually mix in the flour mixture until combined.
Bake and fill
Divide the batter into three layers and bake until golden.
For the filling, boil the cream and sugar until it thickens and can form threads.
Beat the filling until fluffy and spread it between the cake layers.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Nutmeg + cinnamontop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together11,917 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Clove + cinnamontop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together14,189 recipes
Shared aroma: ethyl cinnamate (sweet, balsamic).
-
Clove + allspicetop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together7,874 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Cinnamon + allspicetop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together5,536 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Nutmeg + allspicetop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together3,331 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Eggs
- Provide structure and richness, helping the batter set as it bakes.
- Flour
- Forms the structure that holds the cake's layers together.
- Sour milk
- Adds moisture and acidity that reacts with the baking soda to help the cake rise.
- Baking soda
- Reacts with the acidic sour milk and preserves to produce gas that lightens the cake.
- Thick preserves
- Add sweetness, fruit flavour, and moisture to the batter.
- Butter
- Adds fat for tenderness and flavour in the batter.
The step that matters
Boil the cream and sugar for the filling. Cooking the cream and sugar to the right thread stage sets the filling. Too little cooking leaves it runny, and too much makes it hard and grainy once cooled.
Swap the allspice
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (sugar, egg, butter, milk, nutmeg, clove, cinnamon):
- Cardamomfits about as well
- Allspicethe original
- Gingerfits less well
- Marjoramfits less well
Fit is the average pairing score against sugar, egg, butter, milk, nutmeg, clove, cinnamon. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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