Why it works: Allspice and cinnamon match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 5,536 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
Plum Cake
Ingredients
Directions
The book says “a quick oven”. The 400°F (200°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure. The book gives no cooking times; the times in the steps were added in transcription, so check for doneness rather than trusting the clock.
Make the batter
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
In a large bowl, cream together the butter and molasses.
Add the sweet milk and well-beaten eggs, mixing thoroughly.
Stir in the dissolved saleratus, ground spices, and brandy.
Gradually add flour until the batter is stiff but can be stirred easily.
Beat the mixture well until light.
Fold in the raisins, currants, and citron.
Bake
Pour the batter into a greased cake pan and bake for about 45-60 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Allspice + cinnamontop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together5,536 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Butter + milktop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together81,283 recipes
Shared aroma: (z)-4-heptenal (biscuit, cream).
-
Mace + allspicetop 7% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together3,189 recipes
Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).
-
Mace + cinnamontop 10% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together3,611 recipes
Shared aroma: methyleugenol (clove, spice).
-
Milk + cinnamontop 10% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together12,655 recipes
Shared aroma: cuminaldehyde (Spicy, cumin).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Butter
- Adds richness and tenderness, and carries flavor through the batter.
- Molasses
- Adds dark color, moisture, and deep sweetness.
- Eggs
- Bind the batter and add structure as the cake sets in the oven.
- Baking soda
- Reacts with the molasses's acidity to help the cake rise and lighten.
- Flour
- Provides the structure that sets the cake as it bakes.
- Raisins
- Add chewy sweetness and moisture throughout the cake.
The step that matters
Dissolve the saleratus fully before adding it. Baking soda must be dissolved and evenly mixed into the batter to react with the molasses's acidity. Unevenly distributed soda leaves pockets that can taste bitter or rise unevenly.
Swap the mace
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (butter, molasses, milk, egg, allspice, cinnamon, brandy):
- Nutmegfits better
- Clovefits better
- Cardamomfits better
- Macethe original
Fit is the average pairing score against butter, molasses, milk, egg, allspice, cinnamon, brandy. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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