Why it works: Cinnamon and nutmeg match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 11,917 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
A Very Rich Custard
Ingredients
Directions
The book says “a slow oven”. The 300°F (150°C) in the steps is the modern equivalent, not the book's own figure.
Make the custard
Boil the milk or cream with the cinnamon pieces.
Strain the mixture and let it cool.
Gradually stir in the sugar and spices.
Add the beaten egg yolks and mix well.
Bake and finish
Pour the mixture into cups and place them in a baking dish filled with water.
Bake in a slow oven at 300°F (150°C) until set.
Grate nutmeg on top of each custard.
Top with beaten egg whites mixed with powdered sugar and essence of lemon.
If desired, add a spot of red nonpareils in the center.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Cinnamon + nutmegtop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together11,917 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
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Nutmeg + lemontop 5% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together11,318 recipes
Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).
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Cinnamon + lemontop 7% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together7,950 recipes
Shared aroma: beta-phellandrene (minty, terpene).
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Milk + cinnamontop 10% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together12,655 recipes
Shared aroma: cuminaldehyde (Spicy, cumin).
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Cinnamon + sugartop 10% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together30,779 recipes
Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).
Cinnamon and sugar barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 30,779 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Eggs
- Egg yolks thicken the custard as they set, giving it a smooth, sliceable body.
- Egg whites
- Whipped whites form a light, airy topping that contrasts with the dense custard below.
- Milk or cream
- Provides the liquid base and richness that the eggs set into a creamy custard.
- Sugar
- Adds sweetness and helps soften the set texture of the custard.
The step that matters
Bake in a water bath until just set. Eggs set through gentle heat; a slow oven with the cups in water keeps the custard from overheating, which would make it grainy, weepy or cracked. Remove it once the centre barely wobbles, as it keeps setting as it cools.
Swap the lemon
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (milk, cinnamon, sugar, egg, nutmeg):
- Vanillafits better
- Raisinfits better
- Figfits about as well
- Lemonthe original
Fit is the average pairing score against milk, cinnamon, sugar, egg, nutmeg. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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