Why it works: Cinnamon and allspice match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 5,536 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
Plum-pudding
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare
Clean the currants.
Soak the bread crumbs in the milk.
Strain the molasses.
Sift together the flour and baking powder.
Mix the batter
Add the egg yolks and all other ingredients.
Add the sifted flour and baking powder to the mixture.
Fold in the beaten egg whites last.
Steam and finish
Fill a well-greased pudding mold or tin kettle with a cover no more than two-thirds full.
Fit the cover tightly.
Boil in a large pot of boiling water for 3 hours and 30 minutes.
Place a sprig of holly on top.
Pour a little brandy over the pudding.
Ignite the brandy.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Cinnamon + allspicetop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together5,536 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
-
Flour + raisintop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together9,075 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
-
Cinnamon + raisintop 1% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together5,390 recipes
Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom, earthy).
-
Flour + cinnamontop 9% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together17,341 recipes
Shared aroma: isobutyraldehyde (malty, green).
-
Cinnamon + milktop 10% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together12,655 recipes
Shared aroma: cuminaldehyde (Spicy, cumin).
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Eggs
- Yolks bind the batter, and whites beaten and folded in add air for a lighter texture.
- Flour
- Provides the structure that holds the pudding together as it cooks.
- Suet
- Adds fat that keeps the pudding moist and tender.
- Bread crumbs
- Soak up the milk and add body and moisture to the batter.
- Dark molasses
- Adds sweetness, dark color, and moisture.
- Baking powder
- Releases gas during cooking to help the pudding rise.
The step that matters
Fold in the beaten egg whites last. Beaten whites hold air bubbles that give lift. Folding them in gently at the end, rather than stirring, keeps that air from collapsing and keeps the batter light.
Swap the allspice
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (egg, flour, cinnamon, milk, bread, molasses, raisin):
- Nutmegfits better
- Clovefits about as well
- Cardamomfits about as well
- Allspicethe original
Fit is the average pairing score against egg, flour, cinnamon, milk, bread, molasses, raisin. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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