Why it works: Cinnamon and allspice match in chemistry and in kitchens. They rank in the top 1% of all ingredient pairs, and cooks put them together in 5,536 recipes. Both carry estragole, which smells anise, licorice. The science ↓
English Plum Pudding
Ingredients
Directions
Prepare the batter
In a large bowl, combine bread crumbs, brown sugar, raisins, currants, citron, and chopped suet.
In another bowl, beat the eggs and mix in the milk, cinnamon, allspice, cloves, and grated nutmeg.
Pour the egg mixture into the dry ingredients and stir well to combine.
Cook
Transfer the mixture into a buttered mold.
Boil the mold for 6 hours or steam it if preferred.
Transcribed from a scanned cookbook and modernised for today's kitchens. Where the book gave no heat or time, or said "a moderate oven", the temperatures and times here may be modern equivalents rather than the book's own figures.
Explore the science
The flavor team
The pairs that carry this dish. Each one is judged two ways: how much their aromas overlap, and how often cooks already put them together.
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Cinnamon + allspicetop 1% of all pairsSmell alikestrongCooked together5,536 recipes
Shared aroma: estragole (anise, licorice).
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Raisin + cinnamontop 1% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together5,390 recipes
Shared aroma: 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom, earthy).
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Milk + cinnamontop 10% of all pairsSmell alikemoderateCooked together12,655 recipes
Shared aroma: cuminaldehyde (Spicy, cumin).
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Currant + allspicetop 10% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together1,359 recipes
Shared aroma: ethyl benzoate (fruity, sweet).
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Sugar + cinnamontop 10% of all pairsSmell alikelowCooked together30,779 recipes
Shared aroma: guaiacol (smoky, sweet).
Sugar and cinnamon barely smell alike, yet cooks put them together in 30,779 recipes: they work on texture and structure more than aroma.
Ranks compare each pair with 20,000 random ingredient pairs on CompKitchen. How we score pairs
What each ingredient does
- Eggs
- Bind the mixture and help give the pudding its set structure as they cook.
- Bread crumbs
- Absorb the milk and eggs to form a moist, tender body for the pudding.
- Suet
- Adds fat that keeps the pudding moist and rich in texture.
- Brown sugar
- Provides sweetness and a deep, molasses-like flavor.
- Raisins
- Add concentrated sweetness and chewy texture throughout the pudding.
The step that matters
Boil the mold for 6 hours. Long, gentle cooking in a sealed mold sets the eggs and softens the suet and crumbs into a cohesive pudding. Water must keep the mold fully submerged and at a steady simmer, or the pudding can turn out dry or unevenly cooked.
Swap the currant
How well each one fits the dish's main ingredients (bread, sugar, raisin, egg, milk, cinnamon, allspice):
- Vanillafits better
- Figfits better
- Lemonfits better
- Currantthe original
Fit is the average pairing score against bread, sugar, raisin, egg, milk, cinnamon, allspice. Candidates are from the same food group and used in at least 100 recipes.
“What each ingredient does” and “The step that matters” were written by Claude from this recipe’s own method and reviewed in samples by CompKitchen.
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